Doha, the main venue for the 2022 Qatar World Cup, is a modern capital with a futuristic profile in which the skyscrapers, designer buildings, streets and promenades completely remodeled for the World Cup event place us in a city marked by extreme perfection and neatness, that contrast with the tradition and history of a town of migratory tribes that has in the souk, the Souq Waqif, its heart.
But like everything in Qatar, the souk is also of recent creation. Conceived at the end of the 19th century as nerve center of trade and livestock exchanges between Bedouins and tradersthe Souq Waqif (whose meaning may be that of “walking market”) that we can now see was completed in 2008 and encompasses the old neighborhood of AlYassra, the areas of greatest fishing activity, several cemeteries in which today there is a huge underground car park and a part reclaimed from the sea.
The first thing that catches your eye is unusual architecture, made in a traditional way to preserve the charm of past times and, above all, alleviate the extremely high temperatures of summer, using mud in its structure and wood and bamboo for its roof.
It is the main attraction for tourists who come to Doha for the Qatar 2022 World Cup. Being so recently built, the feeling is like a movie set or being in a theme park attraction, but it is only a first impression .
In this place everything is perfect. Charming. Dimly lit lanterns on the facades, small squares full of life or its labyrinthine network of sheltered streets, with thousands of shops selling all kinds of products, from football shirts, fabrics or spices, to the coveted and famous pearls, jewels, gold or animals of all kinds. In Souq Waqif it is impossible not to feel in another world.
The people who are part of the place, the history of each small shop, the aromas of its species, the area where falcons are sold, or its varied cuisine, which ranges from the best street food from the region to posh restaurants, make the Qatari souk an essential place.
“It has been a real market for more than 100 years. It is still used by Qataris. Of course, it is also a great tourist attraction. If I came to Qatar, I would definitely go to one of the restaurants in the area. You will find all kinds of cuisine, from Iran or from any of the neighboring countries”, highlights Berthold Trenkel, Director of Qatar Tourism Operations.
Trenkel, passionate about photography, recommends touring the area “Let yourself be amazed: I think that is the main objective when visiting Qatar. It is a very modern country but deeply rooted in its culture and heritage. You have to be open to new things, try new foods, new experiences and, of course, enjoy the World Cup”.
And it is that the Qatari souk is the perfect place to awaken the five senses:
1.- THE VIEW: INSIDE THE LABYRINTH
The network of covered alleys of the great bazaar of the souk is labyrinthine, it is very easy to get lost and you only have certain products and specific specialized areas as references: carpets, fabrics, spices, gold, kitchen utensils and thousands of treasures and antiques for finding that they reward the most curious shoppers.
During the week, during the morning, coinciding with the hottest hours, the souk changes completely. Most businesses sleep and silence reigns.
A peace worth discovering. You will walk through narrow recesses admiring the traditional wooden doors of each business. You will savor its slow awakening and the start of the frenetic activity that anticipates the sunset, at which time the souk is filled with lantern light, color, the characteristic shouting of the markets and the smells of the East. In an incessant noisy wandering of people that fills with life every meter of its cobbled streets and bucolic corners.
Among the secrets of the souk are the Majlis (“place to sit”), meeting places full of cushions, rugs and low tables, generally for men, in which backgammon boards play a fundamental role as entertainment for the more traditional Qatari society.
In these premises, inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, attendees discuss issues of common interest over a hot drink -tea or coffee-, exchange news or receive guests, although they also celebrate events of social life such as celebrations, weddings or funerals. Visiting them is a very interesting experience that allows you to live the culture of the country.
In the souk it is also important to highlight the majestic presence of the Phanar, a mosque with a capricious curved shape reminiscent of a spiral lighthouse. It is one of the best known points of the capital, visible from the promenade of The Corniche and the museums of Islamic Art and the National Museum of Qatar. Elegant and solemn, it is still a working mosque. It hosts not only religious events but also a cultural center where you can have a coffee and delve into the life of the country.
2.- THE SMELL: THE SPICE AND PERFUME MERCHANTS
In the alleys of the souk, smell will guide us to one of the most colorful and frequented areas: the alleys of spices. Jute bags stacked at the doors of businesses welcome a world for the senses from beyond the borders of the country. Specifically, from all corners of the Arabian Peninsula, India or Iran. Saffron, dried flowers to make infusions and stews, dates, honey, curry…
The merchants hide with suspicion and pride the recipe that makes their spice something unique, what distinguishes them and gives them reputation. Because in Qatar, each family makes its own mix, its secret formula. This unique local spice, which is passed from generation to generation, is called Bezar.
“The Bezar We call it that because it is a mixture of spices. That’s a lot of spices in one. It usually has cumin, turmeric, cinnamon, black pepper, coriander, cardamom… Each person has their own mix. It is something unique that we use in many dishes such as machboos (Qatar’s national dish cooked with chicken, beef or even camel meat and rice…). You must buy and add it to any dish. It will be incredible”, says chef Noor Al Mazrooi, one of the greatest gastronomic references of new Qatari cuisine.
In the spice merchant shops you can also create your own product. If you like Iranian tea with cardamom and cloves, for example, all you have to do is order it and bring it back sealed to your destination. Or an Indian curry powder to which you add cinnamon or cayenne. No problem. The possibilities are almost endless. Letting yourself be advised by these experts in aromas and flavors is a most enriching experience.
The smell is also the protagonist of the thousands of small shops selling perfumes and skin care creams. Many are made just to order: oud, musk, cosmetics made with kohl or liquid gold, as argan oil is known. Personal combinations depending on the skin, made with care and personalized following traditional Arab recipes.
3.- THE TASTE: TASCAS AND STREET FOOD
In a souk you always find everything, and at lunchtime it was not going to be less. Street food, sweet shops, restaurants, terrace grills, traditional local cuisine, but also Lebanese, Yemeni, Turkish or Iranian. Nothing escapes the offer of the Souq Waqif.
You can start with some samboose, small crispy dumplings filled with vegetables, meat or cheese, followed by a Chickpea falafel, taste grilled kofta skewers with hummus or salad on one of its terraces, take the opportunity to test the machboos and enjoy a traditional dessert such as honey luqaimat balls (considered the oldest dessert in the world), kunafa melted cheese or regag, crepes with cream cheese, fruit or chocolate. Always accompanied by karakthe sweet Qatari tea with milk.
“Qatar cuisine is a wonderful experience. It has a multitude of flavors, many spices. Each dish has a unique recipe. That’s why when the tests are never the same. You have to try everything. Fans who come to the World Cup have to go to the places that have Qatari food and try this delicious experience”, adds Chef Noor.
4.- THE TOUCH: PEARLS AND GOLD
Qatar’s past is linked to pearls, one of his main sources of income and what led him to reap international fame. Its intrepid divers in search of these jewels can be counted on the fingers of one’s hands, but in the souk you can find shops where you can learn about its varieties, usually pink, white and gray, and discover the peculiarities of a trade already almost extinct.
“Pearl fishing is the past. It was the economic model about a hundred years ago. At that time, the population in the Middle East was very sparse. There were Bedouins who roamed the region, but there were also people who had developed in the main way or means of making money, which was pearl fishing. This was before the invention of synthetic pearls which had a huge economic impact on this region and virtually eliminated their fishing. You can still find original pearls from Qatar, but they are very expensive”notes Berthold Trenkel.
Near the nerve center of the souk there is also another key point to learn the weight and shape of another luxury product, gold. In the Gold Souq we can find a huge range of traditional jewelry and modern designs. One of the main characteristics of this market is that the pieces have to be weighed in front of the buyer before they are sold and all have been previously analyzed to guarantee their quality. With a tight budget you can buy necklaces or bracelets with your name silk-screened in Arabic.
5.- THE EAR: HAWKS AND PETS
The most representative animal of Qatar is the falcon. It is part of the country’s culture not only for falconry, which dates back to the time of the Bedouin tribes, but also as an emblem and family pride. Any visitor will quickly understand. When we arrive at the airport, a huge golden falcon awaits us, in the tourist areas there is usually no lack of a store where you can take a photo with one of these precious animals on your arm and, of course, in Souq Waqif is the one known as Falcon Souk, an exclusive area for them.
Not only with stores selling all kinds of falcons, from the famous white gyrfalcons to sacres or peregrines, renowned hunters, but also GPS systems to avoid losing them, hoods, transport cages and all kinds of accessories, each one more unlikely .
The Halcones Hospital is also located in this area. A place that you must visit, if only to see a waiting room with dozens of falcons (and their owners, obviously) asking for the time to be attended to after having suffered a mishap or for a routine check-up.
Returning to the souk, the chirping of the birds anticipates the arrival at the pet market, a square and several streets that have all kinds of animals. Rabbits, turtles, parrots, ducks and endless varieties of birds (mostly overcrowded and caged) and all the necessary accessories for their care. Undoubtedly one of the most exotic enclaves of the Qatari bazaar.
The souk is, without a doubt, an essential stop for all those who come to the World Cup: visit it and let yourself be carried away by tradition and the senses of a magical place to remember.
